CHOICE 3: You’re going to “go gray” with the help of experts
Graying hair brings out the true artistry in a colorist. Most of the really good ones respect the nuancing and shadings of natural hair, and they use multiple techniques to weave in color, making hair just a little less gray at first, until you reach the shade of gray you love.
Beth Minardi, Co-owner and color director of the Minardi Salon in New York, says “Your hair evolves toward gray, it’s a process. Sometimes it's a matter of sheerly blending gray or allowing some to remain untouched. What I will do is weave in more of your natural tones, with softer color around the face.”
Constance Hartnett, former Color Director of the Frédéric Fekkai salon, says “Women have to look at themselves, and then depend on good advice. If the hair is that bright color gray, it's going to come in beautifully. If it's not going to be an exciting gray, if it's going to be mousy, I tell them 'It's not time.'”
Parvin Klein, color director of the John Barrett salon, says “A child's hair is ideal. It is never one color. It has depth and variation. When hair becomes 50% gray, you have no choice. You have to use single process color. But I would use two different colors front and back to add lightness, and paint the hairline to soften the color even more around the face.”
Comes the Evolution
Even with the expert help of a professional colorist, the transition phase is like venturing into the great unknown. How will your color ”evolve," exactly? What is it going to look like, every step of the way?
At the Minardi salon, evolving into gray can take a period of 6-8 appointments, spaced out over every 4 weeks or every 3 months. It allows the hair, and the woman, time to get used to it. “At some point, a woman will say, 'Stop -- enough -- that's enough gray'. What we are doing is finding the level that works for her,” says Beth Minardi.
You’ll find the “evolutions” she suggests in Going Gray, Looking Great!, and learn how a pro would take dark brunette, red, blonde, and “combination” hair, with single process color and highlights, gray.