A Burning Question

Millions of women have been safely coloring their hair, at home or in salons, for years. Some since high school (like me.) Others wait until they see their first sign of gray. The overwhelming majority of these women experience no problems.

But just as some of us can be allergic to certain medications, allergens in the air, and peanuts in our food, a small percentage of women can develop allergies to hair dye. And it can happen even if you’ve been coloring your hair successfully for ages.

What’s the culprit? An allergen called p-Phenylenediamine, PPD, for short, is found in almost all permanent hair dyes, particularly those meant to darken hair (that’s what allows it to coat the shaft with color.) It’s basically coal tar, a petroleum product found in so many household things.

Most “double bottle” permanent products contain PPD – the kind where you have to mix a dye and a developer together. It’s the developer, the oxidizing agent, that activates the PPD. So while you may never have had a reaction to common household products, it’s because the PPD is dormant.

If you develop an allergy to PPD in hair dye, it can induce symptoms of contact dermatitis:

• Slight burning, itching of scalp, mild facial swelling

• Dermatitis on upper eyelids or the rims of your ears, or a more severe reddening and swelling of the scalp and face

• Extreme burning sensation on your scalp while contact dermatitis spreads to the forehead, neck, and face

These symptoms may start mildly enough, but can be progressive, with repeated exposure to the offending allergen. Minor reactions can be treated with antihistamines or steroids, but only for a limited time. Don’t think you can just pop a pill every time you color your hair. It doesn’t work that way. You must stop using hair dye. If you don’t, you’ll be setting yourself up for far more serious problems.

An allergy to PPD can lead to extreme sensitivities to things you were never allergic to before; your shampoos, deodorant, makeup, detergent, fabric softener, fragrance, PABA, certain dark colored clothing dyes, pen ink, food and medication dyes, sulfa drugs, any of the “caine” injections your dentist gives you. You will eventually have to avoid all of them.

The instances of contact dermatitis from PPD in hair dye became so increasingly alarming in Europe that several nations banned it, notably Germany, France, and Sweden. But current European Union legislation allows it to now constitute 6% of consumer hair dye ingredients. According to the British Medical Journal, nearly 2/3 of hair dyes on the European market contain PPD. And instances of allergic reactions are going up, yes, in Europe, Japan, and other countries. Dermatologists in London report the number has nearly doubled over the past 6 years to 7.1%. Of course, that means instances of a reaction are still very rare, but if you are one of the 7.1%, that’s the number you care about.

Simple solution: READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!
Every hair dye product containing PPD should carry a warning advising you to take a patch test. Do it EVERY TIME. Just because you didn’t have a reaction last time doesn’t mean you can’t. If you have your hair professionally colored, you can ask for a patch test every time, as well, but most women don’t. Imagine going to your salon 72 hours before every appointment. Too much trouble. The only way around this is to notify your colorist immediately if you notice unusual burning. He or she should wash the product off your hair instantly.

One other thing – if you want to go the “natural” route, and are investigating products like henna, beware of anything called Black Henna. There’s no such animal. Indigo used to be called Black Henna back around the 1800s, but it isn’t anymore. Black Henna contains PPD. They’ve simply added black hair dye to it. People who have used it for “temporary” tattoos have had their skin blister badly, and this can induce sensitivity to PPD in hair dye. Even if you’re not about to be tattooed, you can find Black Henna preparations all packaged neatly to add to your henna concoction. Don’t be fooled. If you’re looking for a natural plant dye to add a darkening dimension to your henna, indigo is fine. But it should be labeled Indigo, and not Black Henna. It’s still advisable to patch test with henna and indigo, anyway. Chemical-free does not mean allergy-free. (See The Un-chemical Quandary). 

Again, I want to point out that instances of developing an allergy to PPD are rare. But it can happen. So, if you’re going to color, I urge you to follow the directions on the product boxes, and patch test every time. If you have your hair colored professionally, notify your colorist if you suspect you may be developing an allergy. It’s up to each and every one of us to know what we can – and can’t – use.