Makeup Techniques for Gray Hair

“Should I apply my makeup in a new way?”

Makeup Techniques for Brows, Eyes, Cheeks, Lips

Whether to change your palette of colors or not is probably the biggest decision to make. After that, it gets easier. You may find, as other women have, that they put different emphasis on different areas – and note, I said emphasis, not heavy-handed makeup. One of these areas is the eyebrows. They seem to become more important. Whether they have a few stray grays in them or not, there are a few things you should know.

Brows tend to gray later than the rest of your hair, so Mother Nature does a good job of providing contrast. But, sometimes the effect is more startling than simpatico. Black, black brows against white, white hair can get a little Groucho Marx. Your brows have always gone with your hair before, and they should now.

When I worked with makeup artist Rex Hilverdink on the book Forever Beautiful, specifically for women over 40, he was adamant that lighter brows are more youthful; it's the contrast itself that is aging. If your hair frames your face with a lighter color, there's a softening effect, and anything too dark on your face can simply look harsh.

"No black," says makeup artist Ramy Gafni. "When you choose an eyebrow pencil, look for a neutral shade that is only one shade darker than the color of your gray hair. Taupe generally works best."

Jennifer Wobito, principal makeup artist for Going Gray, Looking Great!, also advises against black and likes concrete and slate shades, preferably powder eyeshadows, not pencils, for more natural blending. "They're still ashy," she says, "and the tonality compliments gray hair." But you have to be careful here. "Some women say 'I have gray hair, so let me use a gray pencil.' In certain lights, this can look blue."

Pale blonde brows need more definition, and a little more artistry. A two-pencil trick will work better for you. Lightly feather alternating strokes of light taupe and blonde, then top with a clear brow gel to set and hold the line.

What about eyes, blush, lips?

There are tons of application tips in Going Gray, Looking Great! to give you a very natural look, while still adding some “oomph” to your face. If it’s been a while since you’ve refreshed your cosmetics supply, or if you’ve been stuck in a makeup rut for twenty years, I’d advise going out and seeing the new formulations on the market. For instance, there are bronzers, sheer fluid highlighters, tinted moisturizers, and new “adjustable” foundations that are lightweight and natural-looking. Even if you’ve never worn foundation before, you might need it now to correct skintone. Sandy Linter, a very famous celebrity makeup artist, debunks the idea of foundation matching skintone. “It should enhance it,” she says. Think about it. If what you’ve got isn’t working, enhancement isn’t a bad idea. As long as you blend, blend, blend, all the way down past the jawline. A pale neck won’t do.

As far as eyes, blush, and lips go, here’s just a sampling of the tips in the book.

Eyeshadow

Do you use it now? Then why not continue? But if your eyelids are what they call "crepe-y," less is more. You can use a color shadow, if you like, but keep it light in application and tone. A darker or brighter color can look a little garish when it’s close to colorless hair. Avoid anything with sparkles; they get stuck in the creases.  Go for a soft, matte, natural-looking shade, like taupe, or raisin for darker complexions, and a soft violet or pale pink to add brightness to the area.

Far better to simply highlight the firmer browbone area just under your brows, and let your skin's natural shadows define the crease. If you want to add color, lid preps are great for this. They provide a smoother surface to the lid, and blot up any oils that cause color to move.

Blush

Wearing too much blush to bring "life" to your face is as close to disaster as you can get with gray hair. Work with the kind of product you find easiest to apply (cream, stick, or powder), but go easy.

Blush placement becomes critical. Keep it farther away from the outside of your face than you used to. Don't blend it all the way to the hairline; feather it out well before it gets to the edge, or you’ll be turning silvery temple strands pink. You can bring it up a notch, especially if you're bothered by dark circles under your eyes. A bit of brighter color steals attention away from deep shadows. Instead of focusing on the "apple" of your cheeks, bring your blush slightly higher for a natural, sunkissed effect. WARNING: Don't go near under-eye wrinkles or into the hollow, or you'll look like you need 8 more hours of sleep.

Lips

There's nothing more striking than red with salt-and-pepper hair or an icy shade of white. A clear red delivers the most impact, but a very slightly spiced-red or a blue-red may go better with your skintone. Think in terms of an apple, burgundy or berry red. Darker complexions can go to the deep, rich plums, but don't go too dark. A slash of dark lipstick is instantly aging (especially if your lips are thinning -- they'll look even thinner).

If you can’t find a red you’re comfortable with, go to a bright rose or raspberry (makes your teeth look brighter and whiter). And, believe it or not, a soft pink is very pretty with charcoal-to-ice hair, but it can’t go too light or it will drain color from your face.  Keep in mind your underlying skintone. A coral-y pink works with yellow undertones, a mauve-y pink with blue.

In Going Gray, Looking Great!, seven top beauty companies have created palettes based on skintone, eye color, and the tonality of gray in your hair (remember – charcoal, sterling, silver, pearl, snow and ice?). It’s a good checkpoint. You can use their colors, or get a clue about the range of shades you should be considering. Take a look.

Know before you go

There are lots more tricks for brightening your face with makeup (or no makeup at all!) in the book. I tell you what lots of products do (and don’t), makeup artists and beauty editors offer their advice, and you’ll get lots of good ideas before you head off to the cosmetic counters! Go to the Book Boutique, and have fun!