BLUE SHAMPOOS
What do they do?

To understand how blue shampoos work their magic, you have to know a little something about color theory. It will help you to know if you need a blue shampoo or a violet shampoo. Or perhaps a blue-violet shampoo. You may have to experiment a little to get it right, because it all depends on the underlying base tone of your hair. What’s that? No, it’s not blonde, brunette or red. It may be yellow, violet, or blue. All natural hair color is composed of those tones.

Back to color theory. There are three primary colors (red, blue, and yellow), three secondary colors (orange, violet, and green), and 6 tertiary colors (red-orange, red-violet, blue-violet, blue-green, yellow-green, and yellow-orange.) That’s all there are. Every other color tonality is derived from these 12 shades.

Sir Isaac Newton developed the first Color Wheel in 1666, plotting diagonally opposing shades. It has proved invaluable for artists, and now, for those of us seeking a brighter shade of pale. Let’s take a look at this and see how certain shades can counter, or offset, unwanted tones in our hair.

Look at the range of violet, blue-violet, and blue on the right. Look at the range of yellow, gold, and yellow-orange on the left. Shades traditionally known as “brassy.” A shampoo that deposits blue, purple or violet pigment helps counteract the tonality of its opposing shade. It’s that simple.

Yet, it’s also a little more complex.

Hair with no pigment (no color) can pick up reflections from surrounding hair. If you’re a bleached blonde, or a dyed brunette, your whites are going to look a little more yellow or gray. Remember, when hair loses pigment, it is completely colorless. It is not gray. It is not silver, charcoal or pewter. It is picking up color from the hair surrounding it.

For this reason, when you first begin to transition, it’s pointless to use a blue shampoo. Only when you have achieved significant growth (and yes, you may be showing pure white strands mixed in with charcoal, silver or pewter – simply because you have not lost all color from every strand of hair on your head) are blue or violet shampoos helpful.

What causes hair to “turn” yellow?

The sun is the biggest culprit in turning white hair yellow. Why? Because it acts like a bleach, removing the natural blue molecules in hair. Say good-bye to the blue, and you’ll get yellow. The Color Wheel tells you that. So does having your hair bleached. The first thing bleach removes is the blue molecules. Then the hair turns red, orange, and yellow, depending on how much blue is removed.

Even if your hair is pure white (no blue molecules), it may have a bluish cast due to the closed hair cuticle. Expose it to sun, and even that appearance of blue goes away, as well as the blue molecules in any remaining pigmented strands.

Other factors, such as pollution and smoking, and the very water you use to shampoo, can “tarnish” and dull your lovely whites, as well. Hair with no color easily picks up other colors.

Blue Shampoos to the rescue

For hair that does take on a yellowish cast, blue-to-violet shampoos are the best. In essence, they eliminate the dulling yellow look, they can add brightness, and they can work on silver, gray, white, or even blonde and highlighted hair. Because what they are doing is depositing pigment to counteract these tones. And sometimes the pigment is semi-permanent color. Others can be derived from botanicals: blue chamomile, blue malva.

If you leave it on too long, or use a blue shampoo too frequently, you can develop a bluish tinge to your hair. So just don’t. This tinge won’t last. Use a good clarifying shampoo, and it will all go down the drain. Just remember next time. Blue shampoos can also be drying. You’ll need to follow up with a good conditioning product. And, although some blue shampoos say you can use them every day, or 1-2 times a week, it’s not necessary. You’ll know when your hair starts to look yellow or dull. That’s when you use it.

Here are some of the best to try:

L’OREAL PROFESSIONNEL WHITE VIOLET COLOR DEPOSITING SHAMPOO

This used to be called ARTec, and you can still get it (even discontinued shades) as ARTec at beauty supply stores. Eventually, the old ARTec packaging will be discontinued, as the L’Oréal Professionnel name takes over. They named it properly; this should truly be in the hands of the professionals. Why? Because they can assess your base tone (remember, yellow, violet and blue?) I might have picked up a bottle of White Violet, thinking I was happily canceling out unwanted yellow. Beth Minardi recommended a mixture of White Violet and Blue Orchid. I have dark hair left too. Blue Orchid neutralizes the warmth of dark brown and black hair. Just cools it down, so you can live with the cooler shade that silver gives off. Makes a difference, and you owe it to yourself to get this right. All L’Oréal Professionnel Color Depositing Shampoos are blended with plant-derived cleansers, natural plant and flower extracts, and semi-permanent pigment.

AVEDA BLUE MALVA SHAMPOO

Now only available in liter size, this shampoo is made from coneflower (also known as Echinacea), wild-crafted blue Malva that’s been sustainably gathered and babassu, a coconut oil harvested in the Eastern Amazonian region of Brazil. Formulated to add silvery brightness to gray hair, and reduce brassiness in chemically treated hair, it also helps restore strength and condition as it soothes the scalp.

PHYTO PHYTARGENT WHITENING SHAMPOO

Formulated with Azulene, a natural substance extracted from Chamomile to restore silver highlights, lanolin, and coconut oil to hydrate and eliminate coarseness, this shampoo has a cumulative whitening effect. The PHYTO shampoos are botanically rich in active ingredients with “limited” preservatives. However, it does contain sodium laureth sulfate, as do some other blue shampoos. Just read your ingredient lists.

MATRIX ESSENTIALS SOLUNTIONIST SO SILVER SHAMPOO

Another salon brand formulated to eliminate dulling yellow and add shimmering brightness to gray and white hair. It’s also designed to remove daily contaminates from the hair (smoke, cooking oils) to improve shine. This is part of the “solutionist” line, so be sure to ask your salon professional about it.

RENE FURTERER OKARA MILD SILVER SHAMPOO FOR GRAY HAIR

Formulated with Okara protein to restructure and reinforce the hair shaft, Vitamin B5 to maintain moisture, and Vitamin E to protect against free-radical activity, it helps hair regain suppleness and luster as “corrective pigments” neutralize yellowing. A gentle, protective cleanser, the recommended use is no more than 1-2 times a week, with a single 3-minute application.

CLAIROL SHIMMER LIGHTS SHAMPOO

A long-time favorite, it seems to have disappeared from Clairol’s lineup of products. But you can find it easily on the web, or at beauty supply stores. This protein-enriched formula does all the things a blue shampoo is supposed to do, toning down brassiness, maintaining a cooler ash-toned haircolor, and brightening white and gray hair.

BUMBLE AND BUMBLE COLOR SUPPORT SHAMPOO FOR COOL BLONDES

Don’t be surprised if it says Blondes. It also says it’s for Silver Foxes, too. The operative word is cool. Because it helps get rid of brassiness. Formulated to be low pH, it neutralizes oxidation, smoothes the cuticle, and enhances the color. What it doesn’t have is moisturizers (deliberately, as they coat the hair shaft), so it is absolutely imperative to use a conditioner afterward.

PAUL MITCHELL PLATINUM BLONDE SHAMPOO

Another “Blonde,” this shampoo has cool violet pigments to neutralize yellow tones in gray, white, and, yes, blonde hair. Fortified with conditioning agents and extracts, it promises to add ample moisture and shine while gently cleansing.